Designing & Patterning Period Clothing - by Stephen Rausch

The class will focus on patterning and sewing well-fitting, historically accurate clothing for the art doll.  There will be two homework assignments which will need to be completed for the class.  The fist part of the class will be concerning the finishing of the 1/3 scale torso (homework). Two methods of pattern drafting will be taught in the session – draping and flat patterning.  Using this dress form the class will drape a 7 piece generic period bodice and then turn the toile into a usable paper pattern.  The resulting pattern will be usable for several styles of period costume.  The second patterning technique will include a discussion of where to find historical patterns and how to scale these flat pattern drafts to fit a sample dress form or the specific measurements of any doll.  Stephen will share his techniques for constructing bulk free clothing for dolls. Included in this class is a discussion of discharge dying, airbrushing with inks and fabric paint, setting permanent pleats and decorative pleating techniques.

Class 

#1D15 on Friday

#1D16 on Saturday  Saturday Class Full

#1D17 on Sunday

1 Day Workshop offered on Friday, Saturday or Sunday                             Intermediate and Advanced   

Sewing machine will be required. Share with a partne, the machine is necessary but not needed the entire class. 

 

Pre class work is required                    Kit Fee: $10.00  

 

Definitely Needed:

For finishing the home project and in-class sewing:

  1. 5” and/or 7” needle for sculpting

  2. Coats Dual Duty Plus Button & Carpet Thread (75% Polyester, 26% Glace Finish Cotton) in White, Ecru or Natural (one color only)  OR

  3. Coats Upholstery Thread (100% Nylon) in White, Ecru or Natural (one color only) –  my preferred thread

  4. Dritz Fray Check (1/4 fl oz bottle)

  5. Fabri-Fix (formerly Fabri-Tac) Permanent Adhesive by Beacon Adhesives

  6. Assorted sizes of hand sewing needles

  7. Assorted Sewing thread (just a few basic colors to match your fashion fabric)

  8. Scissors (both for fabric and paper) and a pair of sharp pointed snips for clipping seam allowances)

  9. 6”, 8” or 10” candlestick

  10. Berol Prism color pencils, ones that will show up on the trigger and muslin (or any light and dark color)

  11. Pencil sharpener for the color pencils

  12. ½ yd light weight unbleached muslin or broad cloth (no need to pre-wash)

  13. ½ yd Trigger or other tightly woven bottom weight fabric similar to cotton duck

  14. ½ yd shirt-weight plain weave fashion fabric (any fabric similar to the weight and hand of chintz)

  15. Felting Needle

  16. extra stuffing

  17. Favorite Stuffing tool(s), Hemostats, etc

  18. Straight Pins

  19. Dressmakers’ measuring tape.

For drafting and patterns:

  1. C-Thru 18” ruler (1/8” grid markings)

  2. Calculator (capable of calculating percentages)

  3. Mechanical pencil with .5mm or .7mm HB lead

  4. Pad of quadrille-ruled paper, 4 squares per inch

  5. eraser (yes we will make some mistakes – I always do)

  6. Cello tape – Scotch Magic Tape or similar invisible tape with a translucent surface you can mark on it

  7. Sharpie Ultra fine tip or similar permanent marking pen

Not needed but Helpful:

  1. Sewing machine – we will need several machines that can be shared (I will be bringing one.  If you are driving to the conference and can bring a machine please let me know)

  2. Small rotary cutter and cutting Mat

  3. Air soluble marking pen (the purple ink)

  4. Several Sheets of 67# Cover Stock Paper or manila folders (for making final patterns

  5. Any of your favorite sewing tools over and above those listed

Where to Buy: 

  1. Almost all the needed supplies are available at your local fabric store, Hobby Lobby, Michaels Crafts or Wal-mart.

  2. The C-Thru Ruler Quadrille Pad, Pencils and Marking Pen can be found at Staples, Hobby Lobby or art supply stores that char drafting supplies. 

  3. The candlestick should be rather thin with a cup for a standard taper.  I get glass/crystal candlesticks at hobby Lobby and have found some nice peter ones at Wal-mart.